8.11., 6:00: start of my hiking experience on the Yunnan trip. I take a bus in Zhongdian direction (which is now renamed by the Chinese authorities in 'Shangri La') to hop off in Qiaotou, starting point for the 'Tiger Leaping Gorge', where the Yangzi River (known here as Jinsha Jiang) surges between Haba Shan (Haba Mountain) and Yuelong Xue Shan (Jade Dragon Snow Mountain), one of the deepest gorges in the world. In the bus I meet a 23 years old guy of Bai minority with two special features: extraordinary ugly teeth and amazingly perfect spoken English. He is exceptional. Actually studying computer science he more and more improved his English through home studies and was finally chosen as translator for government officials. He has already been in dozens of countries, among them Germany. Due to his function as tour guide he can give me some interesting information on Lijiang: this year 4,8 million tourists will visit, next year 6 and the following year 8 million expected. The city is growing rapidly but since 2002 construction of high rise buildings is banned.

We both get off at Qiaotou, he to guide a New Zealand tour group along the tourist sites, me to head for the trek which winds along the gorge to a small village called Daju. I miss the turn off the big road because the trail does not pass the football yard of the middle school anymore, as written in 'Lonely Planet', but two teachers who came from Shanghai to work in this forgotten place lead me the way. At the trailhead I meet Haley, Stacy and Josh, 3 Americans from Minneapolis. We walk together and they are excited to hear my story about visiting David Fruehauf in Minneapolis, the American who found contact to my family through research on his family roots. Josh works out to be an indeed beer expert who could tell me much more about German beer that I would know myself. He also talks decent German and tells me about one of his best meals ever: eating กฎBratwurst and Sauerkrautกฏ at Munichกฏs Marienplatz and drinking Franziskaner Wei?beer. They are kind people, itกฏs fun to be with them. On the way we pick up one more person: Mikeo, called Micky, from Yokohama, Japan. After lunch break at 'Naxi Guesthouse' we proceed to 'Halfway Guesthouse' where we stay overnight. We enjoy Naxi Sandwich and Dali beer for dinner and spectacular views from our rooms towards the 5500m snowcapped peak of Yuelong Xue Shan. Next day, after banana pancakes for breakfast we proceed the tiny path, pass goat herds and bamboo forests. After descending towards the road, two heavy packed cyclers rush beyond us. From the road we need to further descend about 400m altitude towards the Jinsha River, where a 'ferry' takes us to the other side. After ascending again we finally reach our destination Daju and say good bye to the Americans who go back to Lijiang the same day. Micky and me stay overnight at 'Tiger leaping Gorge hotel' (an exaggeration). Short before dawn two more persons arrive, the cyclers who had passed us on the road, Rene and Jenny, a sympathetic dutch couple. They needed to go via the 'old ferry' where the pass is slightly less steep, but still they had an extremely hard time pushing their bikes + 25 kg luggage down and up again the slopes of Jinsha River. Anyway they are used to hardship - they already cycled 3 weeks through Sichuan province and passed 1500 km through mountaineous terrain with the highest pass at 4500m NN. We finish the day playing กฎMah Jongกฏ which Micky teaches us patiently.

Next day Rene and Jenny leave early in Lijiang direction, Micky and me explore the Daju area. I decide it to be my 'Shangri La' (Paradise). It's secluded, scenic, quiet and beautiful here. At 1:30 we take the Lijiang bound bus. After 2 hours climbing hairpins upwards on cobblestone roads we pass two suffering cyclers: Rene and Jenny making their way upwards. It must have been over 1000m altitude so far and I am not sure whether they can make it to Lijiang that day. Good to knew they are carrying sleeping bags and waterproof covers for bivak in case they cannot reach accommodation. In Lijiang we finish the day drinking two beer in 'noisy area' (o'tone Micky). Walking back we once more meet and Italian girl and Israelian guy, two round the world travellers we already knew from 'Halfway Guesthouse'. Next day, after Yunnan goat cheese and Yunnan coffee for breakfast Micky and me take the Dali bound bus. Today, after rowing in a fisherman's boat on Erhai lake and a hike to a temple we did not intend to go to, we will take the overnight bus to Kunming where I get a flight to Bangkok tomorrow.